Amber or Amber Gris – What the differences. Today we discuss the critical differences between Amber or Amber Gris.
Amber and Amber Gris
The name Amber evokes the prized aromatic captive in perfumery – Amber Gris but Amber is different from Amber Gris and is actually a fantasy accord made of two main classical ingredients Labdanum and Vanilla. In classical perfumery, Amber is usually a sweet rich accord and does not attempt to mimic the animalic Amber gris. Amber is an accord which is sweet and a versatile accord combining different elements including florals and spices. In my opinion an Amber accord can be a family if used with the other aroma materials following the classical structure of perfumery with the top, middle and bottom notes.
The binder or captive in an amber accord is usually labdanum but an amber accord can be composed without labdanum but classical amber is usually labdanum and vanilla. Labdanum is smoky, leathery sweet, incense note. It is a complex, heavy ingredient and can render the other ingredients in the composition as opaque but when used with other sweet and woody notes, the amber accord becomes voluptuous and radiant.
In middle east perfumery amber accords are often composed of florals, sweet and spicy notes to accentuate any composition. In western Perfumery Amber accords are also used in Chypre and Fougere compositions
Some of the fragrances using Amber in their compositions
Serge lutens Ambre Sultan
Ambre 83
Tom Ford Amber Absolute
Armani Prive Ambre Soie
Heaven by Oxor Perfumes
Which are your favourite composition of Amber ?
